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When Sam Sifton announced that he was stepping down as the restaurant critic at the New York Times he said that his last review would be his choice as best restaurant in all of New York City.

I was dying to know what he’d choose. I practically ran to the door that Wednesday morning, ripped open the paper and turned to Dining. Sifton had spoken: per se. As if it could be anything else. Preston and I had been thinking about going. A partner of his, a trained chef, had been wanting to go. Reservations were made and soon the big night was upon us.

{The bad news was that I am fighting off a cold, which is not how I’d choose to experience per se. Also we had to leave by 8:45 pm — we had a 6pm reservation — to close on a refi. Yes, really.}

It was outrageous in every possible way. Outrageously good, outrageously expensive, outrageously New York. So far over the top it can’t even see the top.

But man is the food good. So good. Made-by-God-good.

Highlights included the amuse bouche of cheese gougeres (“cheesy poufs!”) and then another of salmon tartare. The Oysters and Pearls — a signature dish — was as good as the hype. I also loved the salad which had an eggplant crisp that was so thin it was translucent. The butter poached lobster may have ruined me for any other lobster dish.

I could go on. The dinner did. Nine courses. Each is quite small, but nevertheless by the end you think you may never eat again. I’m embarrassed to admit that some macarons that came at the end went nearly untouched. (I did manage to stuff down a half of one flavored like a red hot. Sublime.) The flavors were just amazing from beginning to end. Go and read Sifton’s review — he’s much better at food journalism than I will ever be.

It was in every way an amazing experience.

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10 Columbus Circle @ the Time Warner Center
NYC 10019
(212) 823-9335